A hint of smoke and a touch of earth precede the fresh lemon notes of the nose. The dry palate, with its vivid impression of very pure, bright and incisive lemon freshness, still seems tightly wound. There is something brooding and alive about this-it can be felt below the surface, disquieting but promising. This has barely started on its journey and will take a while to develop fully but it's all already there, dormant and ready to unfurl with a little more bottle age. The pure, long and intense finish is a delicious promise. Drink 2017-2037.

A graceful white that waltzes on the palate, showing fine integration of the intense acidity, with appealing flavors of ripe white peach, almond blossom and lemon parfait. A streak of salinity drives the lasting finish. Drink now through 2030. 300 cases made.